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What causes the paint to come off the prop after PROP GUARD installation?

The problem is most likely caused by silicone contamination. Any trace of silicone compounds will act as a release agent and destroy the bond of the underlying paint or PROP GUARD adhesive. Silicone cannot be removed with lacquer thinner, MEK or other standard solvents. Naphtha or a silicone remover found at local auto parts or paint stores is required to remove it. Just repainting and reinstalling will probably not solve the problem. The silicone contamination can come from something as simple as touching the prop with your hands that have touched RTV or a waxed surface.

Why is PROP GUARD clear?

Being clear allows you to see through PROP GUARD to inspect the propeller.

Why is PROP GUARD glossy instead of flat? A satin or flat finish would match the flat black on the back of the propeller.

A flat finish material was tried but the manufacturing process to get a flat finish reduced the strength of the product. The glossy finish has little effect on light reflection in flight.

Will PROP GUARD degrade propeller performance?

There is no loss of performance for the listed applicable model propellers. We have seen some performance degradation on exotic high performance experimental applications where extreme prop speeds or extra wide propeller blades were involved. We have also seen some experimental use of PROP GUARD where there were performance increases when the PROP GUARD edge was pinked on the face (forward side) of the propeller. The zig-zag pattern of the pinked edge produces a vortices generation that helps hold the moving air to the propeller surface longer.

Will PROP GUARD protect my propeller from damage caused by a big rock?

There is a certain size rock that will break through the PROP GUARD and damage the propeller. When this happens, the damage to the propeller will be much less than if PROP GUARD had not been there, as much of the rock’s energy is absorbed by failing the PROP GUARD.

I frequently need to replace my Dry Air Pump. What could be causing this?

1. Check your hoses to make certain that they are not collapsed or kinked.
2. Replace the system filter(s). A dirty or clogged filter will cause the pump to work significantly harder than normal and could cause premature failure.
3. Make sure that you have the correct pump installed on your aircraft.
4. Make sure that no oil contamination is entering the pump.

Is an overhauled Dry Air Pump as good as a new pump?

We can only speak for Tempest overhauled pumps as we have no control over the quality of other overhaul shops. Before Tempest®/Aero Accessories, LLC offered an overhauled pump, they spent more than a year in research and testing to determine what was required to produce a quality overhauled pump that would last as long as a new pump producing the vacuum or pressure required for aircraft application. In 1984 Tempest®/Aero Accessories, LLC had its overhaul process specification approved by the FAA and began offering quality overhauled vacuum pumps to general aviation. Tempest takes great pride in their state of the art overhaul facility, and produce the best overhauled pump on the market today. Over the years they have acquired FAA-PMA’s for all component parts of the Dry Air Pumps, and have supplied replacement parts to all overhaulers worldwide.

Should I use a cooling shroud on my dry air pump?

Yes, using a cooling shroud whether on a 200 series or 400 series dry air pump can reduce pump temperatures by as much as 10%. For more information, go to Vacuum Pump Cooling Kit.

What procedures should be taken when replacing a failed pump?

1. A correctly functioning pump creates a vacuum in the system lines, so when the pump fails (due to wear or from FOD which has entered pump) the carbon rotor and vanes break into very fine pieces which can be sucked back up into the inlet hose. It is very important to remove the inlet and outlet hoses from the aircraft and clean them out thoroughly, making sure to remove all particles. It is imperative to clean the entire system after a pump failure. By doing so you will eliminate the chance of premature failure by your new replacement pump as a result of carbon FOD from a previously failed pump entering your new system.
2. After you have installed the new replacement pump, check and make sure the aircraft vacuum system is working properly. A faulty regulator , dirty vacuum pump filter, or a crimped or partially collapsed hose which causes a restriction in the system can force to pump to work harder, causing premature failure.
   
   
3. If your aircraft engine has high time, go ahead and replace the oil seal in the engine case where the pump mounts. The area could be dry now, but the seal could start leaking in just a few hours causing oil contamination in your vacuum pump, making it inoperable. Less than $10 dollars spent here could save you hundreds of dollars later.

When I start my engine the vacuum gauge reads zero vacuum, but as the engine RPM increases, the gauge will indicate vacuum. What causes this?

The carbon vanes inside the pump are sticking in rotor slots. Oil or solvent has entered the pump either from a bad oil seal in the engine case at the pump mounting area, or from pressure washing the engine with an oil-based solvent (spraying directly on the pump). The oil or solvent will work its way up into the pump through the drive end, mixing with graphite dust and turning into a paste like material.

A Dry Air Pump is just that: DRY. As the carbon rotor and vanes wear, they produce graphite dust which lubricates moving internal parts of the pump. When oil or solvent mixes with this graphite dust, it keeps vanes from moving freely in their slots and they stick. At low engine RPM, the vanes are recessed in their slots and create no vacuum, but as engine RPM increases, centrifugal force slings the vanes out, allowing them to grab air and create vacuum. Once a pump has become contaminated, its life expectancy is extremely short. The cause of pump contamination should be determined and corrected and the pump should be replaced as soon as possible. 

Can PowerUp aftermarket parts be mixed with Champion Slick parts?

Yes! All of the PowerUp Slick Aftermarket parts have been FAA-approved to be equivalent to or improved than Champion Slick parts. PowerUp’s Aftermarket Slick parts have been in production for 30 years and tens of thousands of our parts have been put into service.

Can Premier parts be painted?

Yes, Premier parts can be painted. They recommend using SEM Color Coat Aerosol Products. 

• SEM Technical Data Sheet and Application Instructions

However, any paint that is specifically designed for plastic should work on Premier parts, which are manufactured with a PVC-Acrylic material commonly referred to as KYDEX. Retail stores that sell automotive paint can be helpful with paint choices as most of automobile interiors are made from KYDEX also.

How do I clean and sanitize a McFarlane Push-Pull Control?

We make the following cleaning and sanitizing recommendations to be completed between flights:

Recommended Cleaning Process

1. Put on clean disposable gloves prior to cleaning and disinfection.

2. Pull controls back to the fully retracted position to expose the full length of the control shafts.

3. Apply isopropyl alcohol to a clean microfiber towel. Do not spray any solution directly on the controls or any other surfaces or components in the aircraft.

    !!! WARNING: DO NOT USE BLEACH WIPES ON ANY MCFARLANE CONTROL !!!

4. Gently and thoroughly wipe down every control knob surface and control shaft.

5. Let cleaning solution dry on these surfaces (contact time).

6. Use a clean and dry microfiber cloth to wipe away any solution residue left on knob and control shaft surface.

7. Remove all gloves, towels, and cleaning supplies from the work area in the aircraft.

Please contact McFarlane Sales directly at 866-920-2741 or 785-594-2741 or sales@mcfarlaneaviation.com if you have any additional questions regarding the disinfection of our controls.

How do I trim my engine control to length?

Please reference the Installation Instructions included with your new control.

I purchased a laser engraved knob and the thickness of the marking is very shallow. What kind of wear resistance can I expect?

The laser marking does not harm the hard durable anodize coating on the aluminum knob. The CO2 laser process only bleaches the color from the anodizing leaving a silver white color that contrasts with the surrounding dyed anodize. The durability of the laser marked area is not affected by the laser. Our tests have shown that the laser process actually improves the corrosion resistance of the anodize layer. The CO2 laser engraves aluminum knobs by vaporizing the surface leaving a deep durable groove. This groove is then filled with a special paint for contrast. The result is a durable long lasting mark.

My Vernier-Assist Mixture control came apart during installation or maintenance. Can it be put back together?

Yes, please return the control to McFarlane for repair.

My Vernier-Assist Throttle control came apart during installation or maintenance. Can it be put back together?

Yes, this is common and can put back together, provided no components are missing. Please watch the Vernier-Assist Assembly Video for details. 

What is the minimum bend radius for my engine control?

McFarlane's Storage and Packaging Specification requires a specific packaging minimum radius based on the length of the control, type of wire used, and the configuration of the control end(s). Please contact us to determine the exact requirements for your specific control.

Why is my new engine control too long/short?

There are several things that could be different such as engine/aircraft modifications, rigging/clocking of control arm or adjustment of rod end will be needed, placement of clamps or brackets may be different, or a previous installation change such as routing from original.

Can I install SAFE-HEET on an induction box/Plenum?

On some aircraft (like the Lycoming IO-540 engines) the induction box covers up the oil pan where the SAFE-HEET would normally be installed. It is permissible for the SAFE-HEET to be installed on the induction box, because the box/plenum is a thick casting that can transfer heat effectively.