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When I start my engine the vacuum gauge reads zero vacuum, but as the engine RPM increases, the gauge will indicate vacuum. What causes this?

The carbon vanes inside the pump are sticking in rotor slots. Oil or solvent has entered the pump either from a bad oil seal in the engine case at the pump mounting area, or from pressure washing the engine with an oil-based solvent (spraying directly on the pump). The oil or solvent will work its way up into the pump through the drive end, mixing with graphite dust and turning into a paste like material.

A Dry Air Pump is just that: DRY. As the carbon rotor and vanes wear, they produce graphite dust which lubricates moving internal parts of the pump. When oil or solvent mixes with this graphite dust, it keeps vanes from moving freely in their slots and they stick. At low engine RPM, the vanes are recessed in their slots and create no vacuum, but as engine RPM increases, centrifugal force slings the vanes out, allowing them to grab air and create vacuum. Once a pump has become contaminated, its life expectancy is extremely short. The cause of pump contamination should be determined and corrected and the pump should be replaced as soon as possible. 

Can PowerUp aftermarket parts be mixed with Champion Slick parts?

Yes! All of the PowerUp Slick Aftermarket parts have been FAA-approved to be equivalent to or improved than Champion Slick parts. PowerUp’s Aftermarket Slick parts have been in production for 30 years and tens of thousands of our parts have been put into service.

Can Premier parts be painted?

Yes, Premier parts can be painted. They recommend using SEM Color Coat Aerosol Products. 

• SEM Technical Data Sheet and Application Instructions

However, any paint that is specifically designed for plastic should work on Premier parts, which are manufactured with a PVC-Acrylic material commonly referred to as KYDEX. Retail stores that sell automotive paint can be helpful with paint choices as most of automobile interiors are made from KYDEX also.

How do I clean and sanitize a McFarlane Push-Pull Control?

We make the following cleaning and sanitizing recommendations to be completed between flights:

Recommended Cleaning Process

1. Put on clean disposable gloves prior to cleaning and disinfection.

2. Pull controls back to the fully retracted position to expose the full length of the control shafts.

3. Apply isopropyl alcohol to a clean microfiber towel. Do not spray any solution directly on the controls or any other surfaces or components in the aircraft.

    !!! WARNING: DO NOT USE BLEACH WIPES ON ANY MCFARLANE CONTROL !!!

4. Gently and thoroughly wipe down every control knob surface and control shaft.

5. Let cleaning solution dry on these surfaces (contact time).

6. Use a clean and dry microfiber cloth to wipe away any solution residue left on knob and control shaft surface.

7. Remove all gloves, towels, and cleaning supplies from the work area in the aircraft.

Please contact McFarlane Sales directly at 866-920-2741 or 785-594-2741 or sales@mcfarlaneaviation.com if you have any additional questions regarding the disinfection of our controls.

How do I trim my engine control to length?

Please reference the Installation Instructions included with your new control.

I purchased a laser engraved knob and the thickness of the marking is very shallow. What kind of wear resistance can I expect?

The laser marking does not harm the hard durable anodize coating on the aluminum knob. The CO2 laser process only bleaches the color from the anodizing leaving a silver white color that contrasts with the surrounding dyed anodize. The durability of the laser marked area is not affected by the laser. Our tests have shown that the laser process actually improves the corrosion resistance of the anodize layer. The CO2 laser engraves aluminum knobs by vaporizing the surface leaving a deep durable groove. This groove is then filled with a special paint for contrast. The result is a durable long lasting mark.

My Vernier-Assist Mixture control came apart during installation or maintenance. Can it be put back together?

Yes, please return the control to McFarlane for repair.

My Vernier-Assist Throttle control came apart during installation or maintenance. Can it be put back together?

Yes, this is common and can put back together, provided no components are missing. Please watch the Vernier-Assist Assembly Video for details. 

What is the minimum bend radius for my engine control?

McFarlane's Storage and Packaging Specification requires a specific packaging minimum radius based on the length of the control, type of wire used, and the configuration of the control end(s). Please contact us to determine the exact requirements for your specific control.

Why is my new engine control too long/short?

There are several things that could be different such as engine/aircraft modifications, rigging/clocking of control arm or adjustment of rod end will be needed, placement of clamps or brackets may be different, or a previous installation change such as routing from original.

Can I install SAFE-HEET on an induction box/Plenum?

On some aircraft (like the Lycoming IO-540 engines) the induction box covers up the oil pan where the SAFE-HEET would normally be installed. It is permissible for the SAFE-HEET to be installed on the induction box, because the box/plenum is a thick casting that can transfer heat effectively.

Can I use temperature controller P/N 707 with a 220 Volt system?

No, you will need to use a converter that can supply 3 amps at 120 volts to operate both a SAFE-HEET and 707.

Can two SAFE-HEET engine heaters be connected to one temperature controller?

Yes, the 707 is rated at 600 watts. This is enough power to run two units by using a splitter.

Do you have any advice for installing a SAFE-HEET?

SAFE-HEET engine heaters are installed with a two-part adhesive. The engine heater can be installed quickly and easily by using the 707 temperature controller at half power. At temperatures below 70°F the temperature controller must be used to ensure proper adhesive cure. Proper adhesive cure is essential to full service life of the heater.

How long should I let the adhesive cure?

Twenty hours at a temperature of 70 degrees. If using a temperature controller you can turn the thermostat to about 110 degrees and it will take about seven hours to cure

I don’t think enough adhesive was supplied with my SAFE-HEET. Can you send me more or can I use the silicone adhesive?

The amount of adhesive contained in each kit is enough to do one installation and offers better thermal heat transfer than using a larger quantity. The adhesive should be thin, if there is no adhesive 1/8” from the edge of the pad it will not be a problem because our adhesive is totally resistant to solvents or oils. Sealing the edges is not necessary. Using silicone adhesives will allow the heat pad to come loose because silicone is not resistant to solvents or oils. If you feel you need more adhesive, we will send you more at no charge upon request.

Is there a SAFE-HEET designed to be used with 240 volts?

No, neither a SAFE-HEET nor Temperature Controller should be plugged into 240 volts. You can use a system with an adapter that reduces the voltage to 110 and can supply at least 3 amps.

My GFCI is not working.

Reference the troubleshooting instructions provided with the purchase of a SAFE-HEET. The GFCI will not work unless plugged directly into an outlet. Plug in the GFCI then the temperature controller. The GFCI needs to be the first thing plugged into the circuit. The GFCI needs full voltage to engage. It cannot have an extension cord plugged in the outlet, then the GFCI to the SAFE-HEET. The GFCI does reset itself every time it is unplugged.

Should I leave the heater plugged in all the time?

Yes, if the temperature is controlled to prevent condensation which can lead to corrosion.

What are the watts of SAFE-HEET?